I could just stay longer on the farm in Baja, but I wanted to see more of Mexico and volunteer at a different farm, so I’ve found one near Autlan, Jalisco and I had 10 days to travel in between.
The road back to La Paz was even worse this time. It didn’t rain for a while so all the mud that I had to taste on the way here changed to just sand, and riding a heavy bike on sand is very difficult. But after little bit more then an hour and a few falls (that ended well because of the soft sand) I reached the highway and then the road was easy.
In La Paz I stayed with the same couchsurfer, so it was very interesting to come back and discover that in the life of others almost nothing changed when I felt that so much passed through mine. I planned to take the ferry to the main land and Alek flew to San Diego on the next day, but he still left me the key to his house in the case something will go wrong and I’ll need to stay more time in La Paz. And that was the best decision ever, because the office where I was told to register my bike was closed on Saturday so the ferry left without me. But I’m glad that it happened because I had an opportunity to meet wonderful people, Alek’s neighbor David and his guest from France Adrien.
Together we explored surroundings of La Paz and even made a 2-day trip to Cabo San Lucas. I liked La Paz much more than Cabos (Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo often considered as the same touristic unit and called just Los Cabos) because it’s ridiculously Americanized. I heard more English on the streets than Spanish and October is still s a low season. It’s scary to think about the situation there during the winter, when many Americans move here escaping the cold of the north. Our host in San Lucas was joking that being Mexican is much better, because Americans work very hard all the year just to come here for a short time, when he is working mainly during the winter as a photographer and enjoy this paradise the entire year. This made me think again how we making priorities.
The ferry itself was very nice and I’ll expend about it in another post, but I’ll just say that I was misinformed about all the process.
When I arrived to Mazatlan in the morning my host Monica waited for me just outside of the port gate in her car with a welcome sign, it was very cute. There is not too much to say about Mazatlan – it’s a nice port city with beautiful beaches, some islands not far from the shore, beer Pacifico is made here, there are plenty of good places to eat and to drink and an old city has a very nice colonial streets and buildings. Beside exploring the city I spend a lot of time with Monica and her family that were very welcoming and warm. They own a few restaurants, so I was lucky enough few times to eat delicious Mexican food for free. By lucky coincidence it was Monica’s sister birthday on the day I arrived so we had a great party.
After 2 days in Mazatlan I was again on the road on the way south and I thought to spend a day or two in Puerta Vallarta, but when I arrived there I received a vibe similar to Cabos and decided to skip this touristic crowded city and camp somewhere in the nature. I could sense a tropical forest around after I kept driving south along the coast and it felt great although I realized that it meant the beginning of mosquito problem.
Driving in the forest and looking for a place to camp I accidentally arrived to someone’s property but just before I turned around and left the place the owner came out and started to talk. After a short conversation he told me that I can camp on his land and even pointed at a nice spot by the river. It was great to stay in such a beautiful place and experience this other type of hospitality. There were two brothers that lived together and I learned from about the challenges of their lives.
The land that they owned had a beautiful forest but was useless for anything else, it was too rocky and the soil was too poor for agriculture. So both of them worked in construction and the wage is only 200 peso a day, it’s hard to believe how they survive. But they still made some coffee and offered me bread and some pork dish, so I politely refused and contributed coconut cookies to have something nice with coffee by the bonfire.
Next morning I woke up early, packed and after a few hours I reached the beach again and decided to chill there for a little bit because I was about to cross the mountains and didn’t know when exactly I will see the ocean again.
I’ve found a very nice beach called Tenacatia by the recommendation of Ben from Portland and it was wonderful stop with only few people there. But a few hours later I had to leave because I need to cross the mountains before Autlan and it may be time consuming. The second wwoofing experience was waiting for me.